I have a 30 g with
3- 2 inch platy
1 2- inch clown pleco
1 2-inch balloon molly
1 1-inch balloon molly
1 2-inch albino cat
1 1-inch white molly (slimline kind)

So my tank isn’t over stocked.
I know the albino needs some buddies,

I was wondering if 50 fry, about 2 weeks old would be stressing everyone out.
The two mom of the fry are gone by the way.

My balloon Molly has stayed by the heater for at least 7 days now with no sign of impending birth herself.
The Platy hide most of the day in the grasses/plants.
I’ve lost over the month a
2 inch white molly-popeye is my guess
1 julie cory ( ???)

water parameters are all 0 for nitrite, nitrate, and ammonia. and I have phosphate in the filter.
Do regular cleaning/suctioning.

Any ideas? I don’t want to slowly loose anyone else.
and my Clown pleco is slowing down a bit, not quite normal.
They have all had their chance to eat the fry, but haven’t. My fish don’t seem to be interested in them, and I don’t over feed my fish. I will look at moving them out. Thanks for you help

Yes 50 little fry in the tank will be WAY to stressful for the fish. Sorry to say but either sell some of the fry or just let the mom have a interesting snack. Good luck with the fry!

I purchased a "ESU Reptile Slimline Light Fixture with 18 Super UV Lamp" (http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2753220) for my turtle tank. The lamp comes attached with an acrylic lens (as seen in the picture at the link). I know plastic blocks out UV radiation, and my red-eared slider turtle requires the UVB rays for proper development. However, (as you may or may not know), red-eared sliders required heated water, so I have a water heater in the tank to keep the water warm, which creates lots of evaporation. So my concern is, if I remove the acrylic lens on the UV lamp (which will go over the tank), will all the moisture from evaporation damage the UV lamp?
I just noticed, for some reason, Yahoo included the end bracket into the link above. The link to the item is here:

http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2753220

Take that fixture back. It’s cheap and you get what you pay for. The UVB bulb puts out as much UVB as a regular house bulb (aka NONE). Go buy yourself a ReptiSun 5.0 or 10.0 and then go to a hardware store and buy an under-cabinet fixture for $5-10. Take any sort of plastic off that is would cover the UVB bulb, then mount it above your tank.

Large-hole mesh will allow enough UVB rays in that you’ll be fine. It’s small mesh you want to stay away from. The amount of condensation created shouldn’t be bad as you need to replace your bulb every 3-6 months anyway. The amount of time it would take to really cause an issue would be longer than that.

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Steel slimline style liquid storage tank fits most full-size and some mid-size pickups. Not to be used as an auxiliary fuel tank. Tank Size (gal.): 37, Overall Dimensions L x W x H (in.): …

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AquaTerra Slimline Mesa rockwall features a slim design while offering 3 dimensional rockwork details. Only one inch thick, it is an excellent choice for those who want the beauty of a naturalistic look without using up too much space in their tank or enclosure. Our unique Slimline design allows

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should i buy a powersun but ive read about how dangerous it could be because i have a 20 gallon tank
should i buy a heater and just let it get natural sunlight through a window and let it walk outside for 1 – 3 hours
or should i just use my desert slimline reptile fixture 7% uvb and put it next to a window and turn on the heater at night

Don’t use a Powersun in a tank that small. It will be too difficult to control the temperature.
A tortoise really does need more room than a 20 gallon tank offers.
If it is warm enough to let the tortoise walk outside, that is great. The more time they can spend outside, the better.
Natural sunlight through a window is not a good idea. The glass filters out the UV light and you will have the same problem with controlling the heat.
You do need a heater, at least for the night. You also need a good thermometer to check the temperature.
If you do get a bigger enclosure (48"x36"minimum) you can go with a different brand of a mecury sodium light. I have had the best luck with the Mega Ray. You can also use a fluorescent tube (ZooMed) 10.0, but there have been problems reported using these lights too. With a fluorescent you do need another heat source, as they produce little heat. The tortoise does need a basking spot and a place he can get away from the heat when he wants to.
Check out these links:

http://www.anapsid.org/

http://reptileuv.com/

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It one of the ordinary philips tv’s not an lcd or slimline. I was hoping that you could get somthing that you could connect through the scart input.
Tanks

You can if you get a converter. I have one made by Shinybow. Its called a multivideo system converter. I got it at Frys Electronics.

My question concerns my chinse water dragon. He is about 6 months old, and 10.5 in. snout to tail. I live michigan and over the summer time, I decided to leave his equarium in my sun room.(wasnt placed real close to any windows) While he was in my sun room he was doing very well. Active, green, eating really well. Now it is fall so the temp is lower, so I decided to put him in my room. I have a 20 gallon tank with a cage attachment on the top for ventalation. A slimline UV light, a 120 ceramic heat emmitter, and a 40 watt incandescent light bulb. After only a few days of being in my room, his activity has decreased, I havnt seen him poop nor found poop in his water bowl, hes not eating, and he has his eyes closed a lot. What he’ll do sometimes is go from sleep mode to wide awake for a couple seconds than go back into sleep mode. Ive been giving him the calcium/phosphorous every other day(when he was eating) The temps r at 90 on one side and 80 on the cool side. thanks, Bobby

Hi Bobby,
How’s your humidity? Chinese water dragons require pretty high humidity levels, and they prefer being a little cooler than to hot. Be sure to keep as large of a bowl of water in your enclosure as possible, maybe your dragons getting dried out, and too hot. Be sure to keep a climbing branch in there too, they like to climb. Always check the temperatures on the top and the bottom of your cage; and I always check both ends, as well. Make sure that the bottom of the cage, (at least on one side) is about 75 to 80 degrees, or even slightly cooler, so your dragon can get away from the heat, if necessary. At the highest point that your dragon can go (like on a branch) that can be your warmer area. Be sure that your dragon can’t get too close to light bulbs, etc. Between 75 and 85 degrees is where the dragons like it, from what memory serves me.
Always provide a cool side and a warm side. Your dragon will choose the best place. When he’s digesting his food he will want the warmer area (since they cannot warm up their bodies like us), that’s why they go in the sunny spots to digest. If they are too cold, they won’t eat either, because they know that they cannot digest their food and it will rot in their belly and usually kill them.
Too much heat will get them dehydrated and if they are dehydrated (like us) they can get constipated. I use to force-soak my lizards by putting them in a plastic rubbermaid type tub (that they can’t jump out of, or, you can even put a top on the container that has holes drilled for ventilation). Put about an inch to two inches of warm water (just barely luke warm to you) and I put a rock or something for them to hang/climb on in case they get tired…you don’t want to drown your lizard)… put enough water in so that the dragons hind end and most of the body is submerged. They can absorb water through their skin and usually it also helps loosen up the dry stools that might be plugging him up. I soak them for about an hour or so, usually they will poop in this time.
Well that’s my two cents worth of advice. Good Luck and I hope your dragons okay.

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Elkay single station barrier-free stainless steel water cooler has recessed in-the-wall refrigeration system and stainless steel grill. All stainless steel polished to a satin finish. Fountain has contoured basin to minimize splashing. Flexi- Guard safety bubbler and easy to operate, vandal resistant front push button. Patented* valve and in-line flow regulators provides constant stream from 20 to 105 psi. Vandal-resistant bottom cover plate included. Energy efficient refrigeration system utilizes a combination tank continuous-tube type evaporator, refrigerant drier, and capillary tube.

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Steel slimline style liquid storage tank fits most full-size and some mid-size pickups. Vented tank is for use with nonflammable and nonhazardous liquids. Not to be used as an auxiliary fue…

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